Feeding since 1982
It’s Easter week! English Easter that is. Greek Easter is another week away yet, and I’m so glad if I am honest. I like to extend the festivities as long as possible, and having them on different weekends does make it all a lot more fun. And easier with visiting families (we get to see Pete’s this weekend then mine next weekend). Double the celebrations.
ITS CHRISTMAS COUNTDOWN PEOPLE.
The tree went up early this year, 95% of our presents are bought and wrapped, the cake is being fed, the pudding is maturing, and jars of booze are being infused. Most of our cards have been sent – I always fall at that hurdle. What else is there? Oh the turkey is ordered – 16 on Christmas day that needed sorting early. And yes, there are mince pies (made and in the freezer) and mulled wine (already being drank) but for a lot of countries it is all about the humble biscuit. Gingerbread, amaretti, melomakarona… We are big fans of a Christmas biscuit. It just isn’t the festive season in the Socratous household (and I’m sure the same can be said for a lot of Greek families) unless my Yiayia has made hundreds of kourabiethes and melomakarona. The woman is a machine; at 76 she still works like she did when her and my bapou had the restaurant, despite having just the one gas oven now and a relatively small galley kitchen. She makes baskets of biscuits for everyone she knows and for me this is one of my favourite things about Christmas. Mounds of icing sugar coating buttery crumbly biscuits with just a hint of orange blossom, brandy or honey, and the way you can never hide if you’ve secretly eaten one because you will be sure to leave a trail of icing sugar everywhere you go. Priceless and made with love. Ok that might be a little cheesy but surely this is what Christmas is about?
And if that hadn’t sold it to you, if totally submerged in icing sugar the kourabiethes last for days, if not a week or more. They are the perfect mid morning treat with a vat of hot coffee, or later in the evening with a glass of komandaria, vin santo or sherry. So if you fancy something a little different this Christmas these are for you, I promise they won’t disappoint.
KOURABIEDES
Preheat the oven to 160ºC/gas 2-3 and line two baking trays with greaseproof paper.
Place the nuts on one of the trays and toast in the oven for 10 minutes, or until lightly golden.
Cube the butter and place in a free-standing mixer and beat for 2 – 3 minutes, until very pale and creamy. Sift in the icing sugar, then add the brandy and egg yolk, and continue to beat for a few more minutes.
Finely chop the toasted nuts or blitz in a food processor (you don’t want them too fine/ ground), then add them to the butter mixture, along with the flour, baking powder and pinch of sea salt, then, using a metal spoon, fold it all together, until combined.
Roll spoonfuls of the mixture into balls, then mould each one into a traditional crescent shape – you could also make them into fingers, whatever you like. Place the biscuits on the second lined baking tray and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until lightly golden. This will depend on the shape and size but be vigilant, you don’t want to overcook them.
Sift a generous amount of icing sugar to a small, deep tray. Very lightly brush the warm biscuits with orange blossom water, then pop them in the icing sugar tray and toss to coat. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. Store in icing sugar, they keep happily for a few days when totally coated.
Greek Lent is almost here! I normally just give up one thing (coffee, cheese, chocolate…) but this year I’m going to do it properly, I’m going to basically be vegan for 50 days. OK, so it’s not as straight forward as that, there are some days you can eat fish, and some days you can’t eat olive oil, but I’ll turn to my yiayia for guidance. I still find it quite confusing. Anyway, I’m going to try, and I’ll share my progress with you all and hopefully find and create some exciting recipes in the process
So, the bread. The inspiration for this recipe, tahinopita, is one of my favourite things about Greek Easter. Traditionally eating during times of lent and fasting, you can buy individual ones all year round from Greek and Turkish bakers (or make it yourself of course). But growing up it was always eaten around Easter time, due to its lack of animal products, and I just love it. The soft dough, caramelised crispy edges, and gooey middle (a bit like frangipane)… insanely moreish.
Most commonly known for its addition to houmous, savoury dishes and dressings, tahini is brilliant for baking with. Sweetened, like in this recipe, it has a peanut butter vibe, and works wonderfully with honey, maple syrup or brown sugars. (Also a little bit in a smoothie with banana, honey, milk and cinnamon is ridiculously good). The most complicated thing about this recipe is making the bread, which isn’t difficult at all, I promise. The filling and ring part is even easier, and is perfect for a rainy day at home. I hope you like it as much as I do.